3D printer accessories

3D Printer Accessories: What You Actually Need

Buying a 3D printer can make it feel as though you immediately need a workbench full of accessories. Usually, you don't. Some accessories solve genuine problems; others depend heavily on your printer, your materials, your environment, and how often you print.

This guide separates the tools that are genuinely useful from the ones you can wait to buy. It covers FDM and resin separately, because the two workflows need substantially different supporting equipment. We have not personally tested every product mentioned here — recommendations are based on documented specifications, intended use, and clearly identified manufacturer information.

If you are still choosing a printer, our beginner guide and cost guide cover the machine itself. This article is about what comes after — or alongside — the printer.

What Do You Actually Need?

Before buying anything, separate the tools that solve a real problem from the ones that just look useful. Most users can start with a short list and add more only when a specific need appears.

FDM essentials

• A print-removal tool (often a thin scraper or spatula) to lift parts off the build plate.
• Flush cutters for snipping supports and stray filament strings.
• Basic filament storage — sealed bags or a dry box with desiccant.
• A small set of maintenance tools that match your printer (often Allen/hex keys).
• Spare consumables appropriate to your machine, such as one or two spare nozzles.

Resin essentials

• Nitrile gloves and eye protection according to the resin manufacturer's safety guidance.
• A washing setup — IPA or a manufacturer-recommended wash station and containers.
• A curing setup — UV light and a turntable, or a dedicated wash/cure machine.
• A protected, ventilated workspace surface that can be cleaned of spills.
• Funnel and fine filters for returning strained resin to the bottle.

These are starting points, not exhaustive lists. The rest of this guide explains when each additional accessory becomes worthwhile.

Priority at a Glance

A quick reference for common accessories across FDM and resin. Priority is a general guide — your specific printer, materials, and workflow always override it.

Priority labels are general guidance, not universal rules. Always check your printer and material manufacturer's recommendations.

FDM Accessories: What's Genuinely Useful

FDM printing needs relatively little supporting equipment to start. Most accessories become worthwhile only when a specific problem appears — failed adhesion, moisture-affected filament, abrasive materials, or a need for more precise part measurement.

Filament storage

Filament absorbs moisture from the air over time, and wet filament prints poorly — stringing, popping, weak layers. Sealed storage with desiccant keeps dry filament dry. This is one of the highest-value, lowest-cost accessories you can own.

Spare build plates

A second plate lets you start a new print immediately after removing one, without waiting for the bed to cool and clean. Textured, smooth, and specialty surfaces also suit different materials and finishes — but plates are not interchangeable between printers, so confirm compatibility.

Replacement nozzles

Nozzles wear, clog, and occasionally get damaged. Keeping one or two spares means a nozzle problem doesn't stop you printing. Brass suits most PLA and PETG; hardened nozzles are for abrasive materials.

Maintenance tools

The small tools that came with your printer — usually hex/Allen keys — handle most routine maintenance. A few extras like tweezers, a brass wire brush (for hotend cleaning where the manufacturer allows it), and isopropyl alcohol cover most cleaning tasks.

Filament Storage vs Filament Drying

These are two different jobs that often get confused. Storage keeps dry filament dry. Drying removes moisture that filament has already absorbed. You may need one, both, or neither depending on your materials and environment.

Storing dry filament

• Sealed bags or airtight dry boxes keep ambient humidity away from filament.
• Reusable desiccant packs absorb residual moisture inside a sealed container.
• Humidity indicator cards show whether your storage is actually working.
• Storage is inexpensive and benefits every material — even PLA prints better when kept dry.

Drying filament that has absorbed moisture

• An active filament dryer uses controlled heat to drive moisture back out of filament.
• Drying matters most for hygroscopic materials like PETG, TPU, nylon, and polycarbonate.
• PLA in a dry climate may never need active drying if it is stored well.
• A dryer becomes worthwhile when you see symptoms — stringing, popping sounds, weak layers — on a material that should print cleanly.

If your filament is stored properly and prints well, you do not need a dryer. Buy a dryer when moisture is actually causing problems, or when you regularly print hygroscopic engineering materials.

Filament Dryers

If a dryer is warranted, current options vary in spool capacity, temperature range, and whether filament can feed directly from the dryer while printing. These are examples of the category, not rankings — choose based on your spool sizes and materials.

Filament dryer

SUNLU Fila Dryer

A widely available, budget-friendly active dryer suited to standard 1.75mm spools for PLA, PETG, and similar materials.

Why it can help

• Adjustable temperature covers the common filament range.
• Simple, low-cost entry point for users first encountering moisture problems.
• Compatible with the most common 1kg spool dimensions.

What to consider

• Larger or wider spools may not fit — verify spool dimensions before buying.
• Basic controls; not suited to very high-temperature engineering materials.

Under $50 class

View at SUNLU

Dryer compatibility depends on your spool dimensions and the materials you print. Confirm capacity and temperature range against your filament before purchasing.

Build Plates

A spare build plate is a convenience upgrade, not a necessity. The main benefit is throughput — you can remove a finished print and immediately start the next on a second plate.

Smooth PEI surfaces suit glossy finishes and many materials; textured surfaces improve adhesion for some filaments and hide scratches.

Some printers use proprietary plate systems — third-party plates may not fit or may not be approved by the manufacturer.

Build plates are not universally interchangeable. Always confirm a plate is compatible with your exact printer model before buying.

Nozzles

Nozzles are consumable. They wear, clog, and occasionally get damaged. Keeping a spare or two prevents a small problem from stopping your printing.

Brass nozzles

Brass nozzles are the standard for most PLA, PETG, and general-purpose printing. They're inexpensive and conduct heat well. For ordinary PLA, a brass nozzle is all most users need.

Hardened nozzles

Hardened steel (or ruby/ruby-tipped) nozzles resist wear from abrasive filaments — carbon fiber, glow-in-the-dark, wood-fill, and glass-filled composites. If you only print PLA and PETG, you likely don't need one. Nozzles are not universally interchangeable between hotends, so confirm compatibility.

Don't buy a full set of specialty nozzle sizes before you know why you need them. One or two spares in your printer's standard size covers most situations.

Digital Calipers

Digital calipers are one of the best value-for-money tools in 3D printing. They're inexpensive and genuinely useful for a wide range of tasks.

• Measuring existing objects to model replacement parts in CAD.
• Checking printed part dimensions against your design.
• Measuring hardware like screws, nuts, and bearings for accurate modeling.
• Verifying calibration and first-layer dimensions.

You don't need lab-grade precision for hobby printing. A basic digital caliper is accurate enough for the vast majority of maker and functional-part work.

Print Removal and Finishing Tools

After a print comes off the bed, a few hand tools handle most cleanup and finishing. You probably already own some of these.

• Print-removal spatula — Lifts parts off the build plate without damaging the surface.
• Flush cutters — Snip supports, brims, and stray strings cleanly.
• Deburring tool — Removes sharp edges from printed parts quickly and safely.
• Needle files — Shape and smooth small features that sandpaper can't reach easily.
• Sandpaper — Smooths surfaces, especially before painting or bonding.

Sharp tools deserve basic care — cut away from yourself, keep fingers clear of blades, and use a stable work surface. Don't use techniques that risk slipping toward your hands.

Enclosures

An enclosure can help with certain materials and environments, but it is not a universal requirement. Whether you need one depends on what you print and where.

Materials like ABS and ASA benefit from or require a stable, warm chamber to print without warping or cracking.

An enclosure blocks drafts and stabilizes temperature, which helps temperature-sensitive materials.

Enclosures also reduce noise and keep hands away from hot and moving components.

Some printers are already enclosed by design; others are open-frame and can be enclosed with care.

Do not enclose a printer in a way that conflicts with the manufacturer's guidance. Trapped heat can affect electronics, and some printers are not designed to run fully enclosed. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for your specific machine.

Adhesives

Modern build surfaces — especially PEI — have reduced the need for additional adhesives. Many users never need glue or tape at all.

Some materials and surfaces benefit from a thin adhesive layer or a dedicated interface product for difficult first layers.

Adhesives can also be used as a release agent on surfaces where adhesion is too strong.

If your included build surface is working, there's no reason to add adhesives. They become useful only for specific difficult materials.

Resin Washing and Curing

Resin printing requires two post-processing steps that FDM does not: washing uncured resin off the printed part, and curing the part under UV light. These are not optional — a resin print is not finished until it is washed and cured.

Washing

• Washing removes liquid resin from the part surface, usually with IPA or a manufacturer-recommended wash fluid.
• Dedicated wash stations agitate the solvent and contain the mess; manual washing in containers also works.
• Containers, lids, and a funnel for handling wash waste are part of the workflow.

Curing

• Curing hardens the part fully under UV light, often on a rotating turntable for even exposure.
• Dedicated cure stations control exposure; a UV lamp and turntable is a simpler alternative.
• Undercured parts remain weak and tacky; overcuring can make some resins brittle.

The cheapest resin printer does not represent your total initial investment — wash and cure equipment is a required part of the workflow. See our FDM vs resin guide for the full comparison.

Resin Safety and Handling Accessories

Resin is a skin sensitizer and requires careful handling. The accessories here are not optional extras — they're part of a safe resin workflow. Follow the resin manufacturer's instructions and Safety Data Sheet (SDS) guidance.

• Nitrile gloves for all resin contact — uncured resin should not touch bare skin.
• Eye protection where splashing is possible.
• A protected workspace surface (silicone mat or disposable covering) that can be cleaned of spills.
• Paper towels and cleaning supplies for prompt spill cleanup.
• Sealed containers for storing uncured resin and wash waste.
• A ventilated workspace — resin and wash solvents emit vapors that should not be trapped indoors.

Never dispose of uncured resin or contaminated wash liquid through ordinary household drains. Follow the manufacturer's guidance and your local hazardous-waste disposal requirements.

Spare Parts Worth Having

The right spares depend on your machine. A useful framing: what failure would stop you printing, and how quickly can you get the replacement? Keep spares for parts that fail suddenly and take time to ship.

FDM

• One or two spare nozzles in your printer's standard size.
• A spare build plate if you rely on continuous throughput.
• PTFE tubing where your hotend design uses it.
• Belts or other wear components where the manufacturer identifies them as service items.

Resin

• Spare release film (FEP/PFA/nFEP) — this is a consumable that will need replacing.
• A spare vat if you switch resins frequently.
• Funnel and fine filters for straining and returning resin.
• Cleaning supplies and replacement containers.

Don't stockpile expensive components speculatively. Identify the one or two parts most likely to stop you printing, and keep those on hand.

Accessories You Probably Don't Need Yet

Some accessories are genuinely useful — eventually. Buying them before you have a specific need often wastes money. These aren't bad products; they're just premature purchases for many users.

• Large all-in-one accessory kits — They often contain tools you already own or won't use. Buying individual tools as needs arise is usually better value.
• A full set of specialty nozzle sizes — Different nozzle sizes matter for specific use cases. Buy a size when you know why you need it, not before.
• An expensive filament dryer for easy materials in a dry climate — If PLA is printing well from sealed storage, a dryer solves a problem you don't have.
• Advanced metrology tools for ordinary hobby printing — Basic digital calipers cover the vast majority of maker measurement needs. Precision gauges matter for specific engineering work.
• A large inventory of replacement parts — Identify the one or two parts that would stop you printing. Stockpiling beyond that ties up money in spares you may never use.
• Specialty finishing equipment — Tumbling, vapor smoothing, and painting setups become valuable when a specific finish is your goal — not as a default purchase.

Starter Kit by User Type

A practical purchasing sequence for common user types. Start with the essentials, then add accessories only when your workflow demands them.

First-time FDM user

Keep it minimal. You can do almost everything with what comes in the box plus a few inexpensive tools.

• Print-removal spatula
• Flush cutters
• Sealed filament storage with desiccant
• One spare nozzle

Buy later: Digital calipers; Spare build plate; Filament dryer (only if moisture problems appear).

Frequent FDM user

Higher throughput makes convenience upgrades worthwhile.

• Everything in the first-time kit
• Spare build plate for continuous printing
• Digital calipers
• Deburring tool and finishing files

Buy later: Filament dryer; Enclosure (for ABS/ASA or drafty environments).

Engineering-material user

Abrasive and high-temperature materials change what you need.

• Hardened nozzle for abrasive filaments
• Filament dryer for hygroscopic materials
• Enclosure where the material requires thermal stability
• Sealed storage with humidity indicators

Buy later: High-temperature build surface if your printer supports it; Specialty adhesives for difficult materials.

Resin user

Resin requires a complete handling and post-processing workflow from day one.

• Nitrile gloves and eye protection
• Wash station or IPA wash setup with containers
• Cure station or UV lamp with turntable
• Funnel and fine filters
• Protected, ventilated workspace surface

Buy later: Spare release film (FEP); Spare vat for resin switching; Dedicated wash/cure machine.

CAD / functional-part user

Measurement and precision matter more than throughput.

• Digital calipers
• Flush cutters and deburring tool
• Sealed filament storage
• Spare nozzle

Buy later: Hardened nozzle if using abrasive materials; Specialty measurement tools for specific tolerances.

Do You Need It?

A quick decision aid for common purchases. Use it as a starting point, then let your specific printer, materials, and workflow guide the final call.

Frequently Asked Questions